"This isn't a tale of heroic feats
"It's about two lives running parallel for a while,
with common aspirations and similar dreams" Ernesto Guevara de la Serna, 1952
Goodbye boys lifelong companions
Dear oldtime gang
The plan:
8,000 kilometers in four months.
The method:
improvisation.
We've got to prevent certain things in life
The goal:
to explore a continent we had only known in books.
THE MOTORCYCLE DIARIES
Good night, Granado
The equipment:
"The Mighty One,"
an aged, leaky 1939 Norton 500.
The pilot:
Alberto Granado,
chubby, 29, friend and biochemist,
selfproclaimed "wandering scientist."
Alberto's dream:
to finish the journey on his 30th birthday.
Copilot: Me, Ernesto Guevara de la Serna,
"El Fuser," 23.
Is Ernesto really going? No, Ernesto is staying
Ernesto, will you take me with you? Let's go together!
Sorry, Dad, but the more you tell me—
You're only one semester away from becoming a doctor
That can wait
Medical student, specializing in leprosy …
Here comes furious Serna!
… recreational rugby player …
Kick it!
Nice shot, Fuser!
… and occasionally asthmatic.
Date of departure, January 4th
The route:
Buenos Aires, west to Patagonia and into Chile …
then north, 6,000 meters up the …
rugged spine of the Andes to Machu Picchu.
Then, the San Pablo Leper Colony in the Peruvian Amazon.
The final destination: the Guajira Peninsula in Venezuela.
We land on the Guajira Peninsula
The tip of the grand continent
Bellies full of wine and two tropical beauties, hopefully sisters
The beer's good, huh?
By January 4th, you'll have finished your exams, right?
If you'd like, I'll agree to make a little detour,
go by Miramar, see your little girlfriend
My girlfriend
A couple of days
Check out the guy over there
Yeah?
Do you want to end up like that?
You don't want to end up like that, Fuser
All you want is to get laid in every country in South America
In every town too, if we're lucky Adds a little spice
What we had in common:
our restlessness, our impassioned spirits …
… and a love for the open road.
Buenos Aires, Argentina January 4, 1952 Km 0
Come on, Ernestito, we don't have all day
Isn't this too much stuff? Just enough
Norton 500, a real motorcycle
Don't worry about your son, he'll be well taken care of
Son
Tough times are ahead
To tell the truth, I've always dreamt of doing something like this
I confess that if I were a few years younger,
I'd climb on that motorcycle with you
Imagine I'm doing it for both of us
Ten years planning this trip, Uncle
You were a kid
Meanwhile
I trust you
So, when's the revolution coming?
Here?
In about a century We gotta learn from the Russians
Leaving already? Yes I'm off
The only thing you need to worry about is taking your medicine
and writing to me
The most beautiful letters you'll ever read, Mom
Goodbye, my darling You'll see
Bye, sis! Take care!
Bye!
No Juan Martin!
Bye! Write to me
Okay?
Send me postcards
Enough sentimentality, you're gonna make me cry!
Take care
So, just like Don Quixote had Rocinante, San Martin had his mule,
we have "The Mighty One" Yeah, which pees oil
Yeah, she pees oil What I'm trying to say is that in this very instant,
young Fuser and your servant here,
embark on a journey to the farthest reaches of the human spirit,
where we will encounter new lands, hear new anthems, eat new fruits—
Granado, I'm holding you responsible Anything happens to Ernesto,
I'm going to hunt you down Put on the scarf, honey
Don't worry, ma'am He'll come back and be the doctor we all want him to be
It's time to go!
That bike is a good excuse for walking
So long!
Watch out!
He's crazy! Animal!
Careful with that bike!
Dear Mom,
Buenos Aires is behind us.
Gone is "this wretched life",
the uninspired lectures, the papers and medical exams.
All of Latin America is ahead of us.
From now on, we only trust "The Mighty One."
I wish you could see us! We look like outlaws,
commanding attention everywhere we go …
Slam it, Mial! Put 'er into orbit!
Don't quit on me, Mighty One! Come on!
What happened, Mial? Fucking shit!
I'm glad we've left "civilization" behind
and are now a bit closer to the land.
What's going on?
We're losing our bags!
Problems! Problems!
Motherfucker! Fucking shit!
Fuser, are you alright? Yeah, you?
What's up, little one?
Are you okay?
What the fuck is that? What the fuck does it look like?
A fucking dog! You're a fucking shitty driver!
Fuck you! What's that fucking dog doing on my bike?
It's for Chichina His name is "Comeback"
Go on, pick up the bike
Miramar, Argentina January 13, 1952 Km 601
Where the fuck are we, in Switzerland?
Good day Good day
Chichina? She's at the beach with the family
That bike's not doing so well
So, Esteban, tell us about your trip
It was fantastic, Don Horacio
I had the opportunity to take a seminar in Cambridge
and spend a couple of weeks in London, a fascinating city
Oh, what a privilege Yes A privilege
Esteban is about to get his doctorate
In medicine?
No In law
Oh, law
One, two, three, four, tango, Fuser!
It's your turn now
I've never seen a pig who liked to dance Ever
Yeah Fuck off
With this foot, one back, back
What are you laughing at?
You
Tonight?
Dad asked Aunt Rosana not to let me out of her sight
And Mom promised the Virgin that she'd walk to her sanctuary
if we break up
Don't your parents realize that the deeper you bury the diamonds,
the more determined the pirate is to take them?
Believe me,
this diamond wouldn't mind being taken
Dance
Look at them
Check out La Negra!
Let's check out the bathroom
Good night
Good night, girls Good night
Good night
So, Aunt Rosana
which room do I get?
Get out, Comeback Scat!
What happened there?
Come here Don't tickle me!
How long did you say we'd be here?
You know how long
Two days
And how long has it been?
Are you gonna use wire in the operating room, too?
Six days, Fuser!
They're going to kill us!
If you stayed we could do many things, Ernesto, but only if you stayed
That didn't sound so good What do you want to hear?
That I'll wait for you?
I told you I'm coming back
I have the dog to prove it
Didn't you like him?
What do you want, Ernesto?
What do you want to hear?
That I'll wait forever, that I'll wait months on end for you to return?
What's with you? What do you want?
What?
I'd like for you stay like this, silent
I want to look at you; I won't see you for a long time
I will wait for you, but don't take forever
Define "forever"
Thin ice, mister!
I won't touch you again
Oh, no, I hurt you Did I hurt you?
It's a trick A really bad one!
Okay, lovebirds, it's time to go
Fuser
Take care, Miss Ferreyra
Thanks for everything
On the boat I heard the moist slap of bare feet
and foresaw faces dark with hunger.
My heart was a pendulum between her and the street.
I don't know what strength broke me free from her eyes, loose from her arms.
She remained clouded by tears, her anguish hidden by the rain.
Is that Lorca? No
Neruda? No
Who?
I don't remember
Goodbye!
Wait, wait there
I'm getting snot all over this
So with Chichina — nothing?
Even after you gave her a purebred German Shepherd, nothing?
At least tell me you saw one tit One little tit
Ah, you saw her titties, then Alright, my man!
Scalpel
American dollars
Fifteen
Chichina?
Yup
That girl's perfect for you I've always said so:
that is Ernesto's girlfriend Now we'll be able to eat like kings
No A succulent proteinfilled meal
She gave me money in case we make it to the United States
She asked me to buy her a bathing suit
I said I would
What?
Pretend this money doesn't exist It's off limits
He's testing me I'm gonna kill him
Are you talking to the bike again?
What the hell are you thinking? This girl's got you by the balls!
No Fuser!
Don't get all worked up, fatty
Hello Good afternoon
Piedra Del Aguila, Argentina January 29, 1952 Km 1809
How's the bike feel? It's amazing!
You can fix anything with wire It's riding better than ever
Goddamn, motherfucking shit!
You alright, Fuser?
Damn curve
Look at the exhaust pipe! Goddamn it to hell and back!
Get more stakes! I've run out!
Don't bust my balls!
Just grab it! You had to choose this spot, asshole!
You're the one that chose it! Hold on to that side!
You hold on to your side first! Come on!
I just can't! Come on!
The ground is wet! What the fuck do you want me to do?
Fucking shit!
No, the river took it!
Get it, get it!
It's gone!
Just take it
Why don't we go up to that ranch?
With those snobs?
We'll find help down here, among the people, don't you think?
Yeah
Should we do the broken headlight thing? Red October
What's Red October? You have your medical ID, right?
Oh, yeah, yeah
Good evening Good evening
What do you want?
It may not look like it, but, well, we're both doctors
from Buenos Aires and Córdoba, respectively
We are traveling the length and breadth of the country
Well, he's got one, too
We're traveling all over doing some research in the hope of curing
some of the most terrifying diseases of the 20th century
Plagues that not only consume our energies,
but also keep Argentina under total dependence
As a matter of fact, if you read the medical literature, you'll note, as we have—
What the fuck do you bums want?
Look, sir The wind took our tent
We're starving and need a place to sleep
There's a shed out there with a good floor
You can sleep with the migrants
But we're doctors
I like your face very much
Yours, fatty, I don't like
It's cool It's okay
Dear Mom,
we're still going strong,
though "The Mighty One" isn't so mighty anymore.
San Martin de Los Andes, Argentina January 31, 1952 Km 2051
Money and food are scarce,
but we've managed to bum some free food …
… thanks to our secret weapon,
Alberto's impeccable bullshitting.
trying to wipe out some of the most terrifying diseases of the 20th—
So you two are doctors? Well, no
Alberto is a biochemist and I'm in medical school
He practically has a degree We're as good as doctors
Then I'd like you to look at this lump in my neck
Mister Von Puttkamer
Hurts?
It's a tumor
What do you mean, a tumor? Yes
You think so? Yeah
I don't know, Fuser I do
It looks like an adipose deposit, it could be a cyst
No It's a tumor
It's a tumor in the occipital zone, probably of hydatid origin
Schatzie, these gentlemen say I have a tumor!
No Good day, ma'am
Honestly, I don't think it's a tumor, it's a sebaceous cyst
If you'll give us some food and a place to crash, we may be able to treat you
No, look, we can't treat you
Don't worry, you just need to go to Buenos Aires
I can refer you to a specialist, but—
We could try to help him
How? With a couple of herbs from their garden? With prayers?
I see, there's nothing you can do for me
Yes, we can If you give us food and a place to sleep—
There's a lake full of fish and a tool shed nearby
Sir, it's a very premature diagnosis
This conversation is over, doctors
Let's go, Schatzie
Work with me next time, okay?
Sure, I'll work with you, but not at the expense of a man's health
Let's suppose you were right, the geezer had a tumor
How the fuck do you just tell him like that? Unbelievable!
It's the truth If he can't take it, that's his problem
You made him shit his pants, you can't treat a patient like that
The guy has a tumor, the sooner he deals with it, the better
It's the proper treatment, or didn't you learn that in pharmacy school?
Look, you asshole, don't talk to me about proper medicine
You little nurse Get your degree, then we'll talk
Fucking knowitall
Let's look for food
Duck, duck, duck Give me the gun, man! Come on!
I got it, man! Very good!
How did you do that? Now we're totally fucked
Well, there is no choice now but to jump in the lake and get our food
Fuser, jump in the water and get our food
You're nuts if you think I'm getting in, you have any idea how cold it is?
Yeah, I know you're allergic to the cold, the water, the heat and all that
but you know what? I'm older, wiser, and I did all the shooting
It was dumb luck! Besides, I have asthma
Okay, you're right If you can't, I'll do it
I never said "can't" "Can't," "won't"
What's the difference? I didn't say, "I can't"
Or you don't want to, same thing
Otherwise, give me Chichina's dollars,
and we'll feast like kings
Look, if I get that fucking duck, I'll eat it by myself
Like a duck to water quack, quack, quack!
I'm freezing my balls off!
So what? You're not using them
Come on
Good, Fuser! Good! Bring that ducky with fries
Is it cold out there?
Hey! You cold?
I'm not
Duck?
Are you feeling shitty?
No, I feel wonderful
Bariloche train station, Argentina 3 days later Km 2270
Here
Fuser
Okay
Fuser, listen to me
Give me Chichina's 15 bucks and we'll go to a real hospital
Ask again, I'll vomit on you
Dear Mom, what do we leave behind when we cross a frontier?
Each moment seems split in two:
melancholy for what is left behind,
and the excitement of entering a new land.
Lago Frias, Argentina February 15, 1952 Km 2306
Look, Mial!
Chile
Chile!
Long live Chile!
First time you've left the country? Sure thing
You're practically a man
Listen, when we're old and tired of traveling
we should come back and set up a clinic on this lake
Huh? Not a bad idea
We'd treat everybody; if anybody comes out here
Count on me, brother
Things are looking up, Fuser
Is that snow piling up? Nah, that's just a little frost, man
One, two, three
That's it!
I hope the chain doesn't freeze up because we'll be screwed
Come on!
Come on! Come on! Come on!
There you go
Fuck, it's cold
Nice little summer we're having
Hey, you said we'd enter Chile like conquerors
Not like a pair of assholes Don't like it? Fuck yourself, Ernesto
Temuco, Chile February 18, 1952 Km 2772
Why don't we dump this thing? It's nothing but trouble
Oh, yeah? And walk the whole continent on foot, genius?
Yes We'd see more, meet more people
you could drop some pounds
Come on, you faggot
With a couple of Chichina's dollars, this is history
Same old song! Forget that money!
If that's your answer, you go to Venezuela on foot,
just leave me the hell alone and take your boss's money
I could probably make it there in half the time if you'd mind your own business
You motherfucker!
Oh, Ernestito, bring me those Yankee panties, from Miami
Don't you realize you'll never see her wearing them
and she'll never take them off for you, asshole!
Fuser!
You know what your problem is, Fuser?
Your fucking honesty
You could help out with a little lie once in a while
NEWSPAPER AUSTRAL
Just hold it
Hey!
What are you doing?
What's up?
Come in!
Thank you
Maté? Yes
Thank you very much No sugar
What is your name? Teresa
Teresa Ernesto Nice to meet you
There, hold it up
It'll make a nice souvenir
A souvenir, huh? I'll take it back to Argentina with me
Are you traveling? Yeah, we are
We're the ones with that beatup bike out there
Oh, that big one over there Yeah
And what is this? That's sea bass
And these? These are clams, no? They're clams
Just normal clams? Clams are always clams
Maybe next time
The Austral News! The Austral News for only 3 pesos!
News of Chile and the world, the Austral News!
Just 3 pesos!
News of Chile and the world, the Austral News!
"Yesterday afternoon, Temuco was honored by the arrival
"of two of the most prestigious leprosy experts in South America
Dr Alberto Granados from Córdoba—"
What do you mean, "Granados?" Yeah, that's what it says
"and Dr Ernesto Guevara de la Serna from Buenos Aires
"have embarked on an epic journey from their native soil to the northern tip of Venezuela
"The charismatic scientists — adventurers, experts in their field —
have treated 3,000 patients across the continent"
Alright!
"They expect to complete their marathontrek
"in a record five months,
just in time to celebrate the youthful Dr Granados's 30th birthday"
It says "youthful" Yeah, they lied a bit, too
Think it'll work?
Hello Good afternoon
My friend and I are having problems with our bike
The steering is broken, the brakes are shot
and the gears are all messed up My ass is killing me
Well, the steering, brakes and gears I can fix
but I'm afraid your ass is outta luck
And we're broke
What? You don't have a penny?
We're getting some money in Valparaiso
We'll send it to you then
I have no disrespect in my heart,
but if you have no money, you have no business being here
Forgive me for interrupting, sir, but if you help us out now,
you'd be doing incalculable service to bilateral relations among our countries
You expect me to fix it for free?
I don't think we're being clear
We can't assume everyone will know who's who in the Latin American medical field
Doctor, if you will Yes, of course As it so happens,
an article came out just today
in The Austral the newspaper
Allow me
Look, Piedad
Tulio!
The picture isn't very good Yeah, it's not very flattering
It's them
Gentlemen, it would be an honor to fix your motorcycle
Thank you very much
After I finish this card game with my wife, of course
Of course
Priority number one!
You know, there's a dance at the City Hall tonight,
and, God willing, the young girls in town will be there
That's too bad!
Should I bring the bike in later?
Leave it right here, we'll fix it up for you
My love
I'm gonna buy
A little plane for us to fly
Allow me
During our sweet honeymoon my love
My love I'm gonna buy
A little train to take a ride
During our sweet honeymoon
Listen to his voice as he walks on
He sings us the Chipi Chipi to dance along
Chipi Chipi Hey
Learn to dance the rhythm of the Chipi Chipi
You know, I was just thinking about you
Yeah? Why?
You made a strong impression on me from the start
Thanks
Do you want to dance?
No I don't dance
My husband's fallen asleep; he's drunk
I have no one to dance with
Well, if you teach me
Yes?
You finally remembered you're a man, huh?
Oh, had you forgotten?
I haven't danced in a long time
but it's all coming back
I can't dance anymore
Do you want to keep dancing?
Wouldn't you like to step out?
I'd love to Yes
Yeah, let's go Okay, let's go, then
What's wrong? Not now!
What?
Come on, it's okay Let me go!
Hey, asshole, the Argentinian is hitting on your wife!
Let me go!
I'm sorry, excuse me!
You motherfucking Argentinian!
Fuser!
I'm gonna get you, you Argentinian sonofabitch!
You Argentinian bastards!
Let's get them!
Motherfucking shit! The chain!
Hit it, hit it!
Yeah! Yes!
Faster, faster!
Are you tired?
No
Don't you want to switch?
No
Are you sure?
Cows!
Hit the brakes! What brakes?
What do you mean? The brakes are gone!
Fucking mechanic!
You alright?
I'm great! What do you want me to say, Fuser?!
Goddamn mechanic!
Is he your dad?
Yes
That cow's going blind
All she's going to see is shit
Los Angeles, Chile February 26, 1952 Km 2940
We are 25 days behind schedule
Hello
It is rumored that Chilean girls are the most daring in the continent
Rumors have no scientific value, Dr Granado
Time to do some research,
Don't you like him? No
You don't like either of them?
Here they come
Hi, girls
Excuse us, but this place is packed
Can we join you? Yes
You don't mind? Thank you
Hello
Ernesto He's Alberto
Miss? Jazmin
Daniela A pleasure
A real pleasure
Are you Argentinian? How'd you know?
Well, because of your accent, because Argentinians always say "che"
Had you noticed, Che? Not at all, Che
Do you know what day it is?
February 26
Sounds unbelievable, but it's been a year
A year since what?
One year since we started this trip
One year and we're flat broke, we can't even celebrate What a shame
Why don't you let us treat you to a bottle of wine?
Wine? Wine
Lucho!
A bottle of wine
for our courageous Argentine visitors
Girls, don't be offended, but I can't drink wine
Why couldn't you drink just a bit?
Exactly There's an old custom in Argentina—
No, please don't
What is it?
I think they deserve an explanation They do
Thank you, Lucho
An old custom in Argentina
doesn't allow us to drink on an empty stomach
Since we're flat broke, we can't buy food
and must reject your generous offer
That's it
Come on, lighten up
Lucho
Lucho, could you bring us some empanadas?
Do you like Chilean empanadas? I've never tasted Chilean empanadas
Four? Eight?
Well they do look hungry
Twelve
What a nice number I've always liked that number
Wish we could stay!
Too bad we have nowhere to crash
We'll sleep out in the park
Listen my dad's fond of Argentinians
No joke! Honest He might be able to help you
Since Dad's chief of the fire brigade, he knows lots of people
What? You two are sisters?
Of course
Look
Can't you tell?
The mechanic won't be in until tomorrow, but the bike can stay right here
Thank you very much Thank you very much, sir
Guys! Cañaco! Come!
I'm going to introduce you to two Argentinian volunteers
that will be spending the night here with you
This is Dr Skinny Che,
and this is Dr Chubby Che
Pleasure Good to meet you
Why don't we go take in the town?
Good idea, but—
Don't you worry, sir
Excuse me Sorry!
Hello
I don't want to bother you, but are you really doctors?
No Yes
Actually, I'm a biochemist
Could you come see a sick woman?
Yes Whenever you say, just— Could we do it now?
It's been a long time since she's seen a doctor, she's in really bad shape
Sure Let me get my things
Well, one has to remain faithful to the Hippocratic oath
Ernesto Moncho
Poncho? Moncho
Excuse me
Look me in the eye
I'm going to touch your neck
Has she eaten?
I don't know
Look, Mrs Rosa, I'm going to leave these little pills
Take one with each meal
and one before sleeping
This will help you feel better
I knew I was powerless to help her, Mom …
This poor old woman who only a month ago waited tables, wheezing like I do,
trying to live with dignity.
In her dying eyes, there was a plea for forgiveness
and for solace, now vanished,
just as her body will soon be lost
in the great mystery that surrounds us.
Fuser, you still haven't asked
about the research I did on our Chilean sisters
You can't imagine how depressed I am
that you're the sexual ambassador of Argentina!
It's true
Are you the clowns that ride that crippled piece of shit?
Her name is "The Mighty One" Her name was "The Mighty One"
Now she can be baptized "The Deceased," "The Dearly Departed," "The Paraplegic"—
Really? Why?
Why? Because I am the mechanic
You could make a buck selling her for scrap
Chile is her last stop
Gonna miss you, girl
I'll carry yours today Come on
What'll we do? Go on?
Of course
A man turns 30 only once, right?
You're something else, Ernesto de la Serna
I mean, if we spend Chichina's— Nope! Don't even think it!
Hey! Hey!
He stopped! Come on!
There she is, Valparaiso
"I love Valparaiso,
all you encompass, all you radiate, lover of the ocean, far from"
Federico Garcia Lorca No!
Neruda!
Valparaiso, Chile March 7, 1952 Km 3573
Thank you
From Chichina? From Chichina And the money?
Should I open it? Go ahead
I'll leave you lovebirds alone
I love you so much, Celia de la Serna
What happened?
Fuser?
Hey, you ready? Me?
Yup Of course
Right away!
Atacama Desert, Chile March 11, 1952 Km 4960
You know what?
I liked my plan better, Fuser!
You are such an arrogant bastard You can at least answer me!
What do you wanna do? Go back?
Go on, go back!
I'll get to the mine and tell you all about it
Are you saying I can't make it?
If you can, little asthmatic doctor, then I can
Just shut up and walk! Ballbuster!
Now you wanna beat me?
Stop, goddamn it!
Good afternoon, hi
I'm Ernesto, good to meet you
Yes
Right there
Home
We didn't have much, just some tough, dry land
It belonged to his grandpa
It was ours Until a land speculator forced us off
That's what they call progress
So we had to leave our son with family and hit the road,
looking for work,
trying to escape from the police who wanted to toss us in jail
Why?
Because we are communists
Now we're going to a mine If we're lucky, I'll find some work
It's so dangerous, they don't care what party you belong to
Are you two looking for work?
No, we're not looking for work
No?
Then why are you traveling?
We travel just to travel
Bless you
Blessed be your travels
Here Thank you
Have a maté Thank you
Their faces were tragic and haunting.
They told us of comrades who had mysteriously disappeared …
and were said to be somewhere at the bottom of the sea.
It was one of the coldest nights of my life …
but also one which made me feel closer to this strange,
for me anyway, human race.
You!
You too
You, over there
You
Not you! The one next to you!
Move it, move it! Get a move on, guys!
Chuquicamata Mine, Chile March 15, 1952 Km 5122
You there, you too Up there!
Move along!
The one in the back You, too
The one up there, you
Hurry up
Get on the truck
The rest of you go home!
Hurry up, move it!
This truck is full
Hey, come on!
You two! What are you doing here?
Nothing, just looking Looking at what, asshole?
This is not a tourist attraction, get lost!
Can't you see these people are thirsty?
Why don't you give them some water, damn it?
Get out before I call security and have you locked up, asshole
Why would they? Why?
Trespassing This is property of the Anaconda Mining Company
Watch the door
You sonofabitch!
As we left Chuquicamata we could feel the world changing …
or was it us?
The deeper we go in the Andes,
the more indigenous people we encounter,
who are homeless in their own land.
We finally entered Peru,
thanks to a halfblind trucker named Felix.
And guess what?
Alberto turned 30, but not in Venezuela as we had planned.
We were so tired, Mom, we couldn't celebrate.
Fuser
This is not humanly possible
We finally arrived in Cuzco, "the heart of America."
Cuzco, Peru April 2, 1952 Km 6932
Our first day in the city, we met Don Néstor,
an old soul, Mom, and our official guide.
Sir, I wonder, which of these walls is Incan?
This one here is Incan and that one is Spanish
As a joke we say this wall was made by the Inca,
and that wall was made by the Incapables That's what we call the Spanish
During the Inca period, Cuzco was the capital
When the Spanish came they started to trash it all,
and made Lima the capital Lima?
Yes
This belongs to Jesus Christ Inc
Are they still in business? Yes
Are they still in business?
She says she never went to school
because she was always with the livestock,
and that's why she doesn't speak Spanish, only Quechua
When I was little there was enough, at least I think so,
there was enough money to afford everything
But now I think there is little money,
there is no work
And that is all affecting us, more and more
From the time I was little I've worked with handicrafts and
that's why I'm not doing too bad,
not too good, just okay
With both hands
With both hands, Néstor
Thank you
Hello
Good afternoon
I was working for a time …
on some land.
And the landlord kicked me off the land
I was doing my work and he threw me out
How'd he throw you out? Did he bring the police?
Yes, he brought the police
Because he's rich, he's got lots of money
He wants me to vacate his land, to get out
Once it was already productive
Yes, it was producing wheat,
corn, potato all that
And he kept most of it
So, I can't live in the past
I have to move on work,
find the money to educate my kids—
How many kids do you have? I've got five
Have you gotten organized with other farm workers
Yes in order to fight back?
Yes We are organized,
we help each other, work our land,
we help each other Very unified
Machu Picchu, Peru April 5, 1952 Km 7014
Ready for the photo, Fuser?
That's it, that's it
This one's for posterity
The Incas knew astronomy, brain surgery,
mathematics, among other things,
but the Spanish invaders had gunpowder.
What would America look like today if things had been different?
Fuser, here's my idea:
I'll marry an Inca descendant
We'll start an indigenous party under these conditions:
we'd encourage the people to vote,
reactivate Tupac Amaru's revolution, the IndoAmerican revolution, Fuser
How's that sound?
A revolution without guns?
It would never work, Mial
How is it possible to feel nostalgic for a world I never knew?
How can a civilization that built this …
… be destroyed to build …
… this?
Lima, Peru May 12, 1952 Km 8198
This isn't it No?
Wrong street?
Mercaderes 52
Let's ask
Mercaderes Street? Mercaderes?
Straight ahead for two blocks,
turn right and go another six, seven blocks
This has got to be Mercaderes
That one is too
Is this Mercaderes Street? Yes
And that one? Yes
We have to count backwards
Fuser? Backwards is 2, 4
What? Yeah
Can I help you?
This is Mariátegui's book And you must also read Cesar Vallejo
The best thing about Lima was Dr. Hugo Pesce,
director of Peru's lepertreatment program,
who Alberto contacted before we started our journey.
He gave us clothes, food,
money and ideas.
Mariátegui speaks of the revolutionary potential
of the Natives and farm workers of Latin America.
He says the problem of the Indian is the problem of the land,
and that the revolution should not be an imitation.
It should be original and indigenous.
"We are too few to be divided," he said,
"Everything unites us,
nothing separates us".
Most of the patients are over here
Pesce got us a couple of beds in the Guia Hospital,
where patients suffering from the early stages of leprosy are treated.
The most critical cases are sent to the San Pablo Leper Colony, in the Amazon.
Zoraida, here's Alberto and Ernesto
I think we know each other pretty well now
Let me tell you something
I look at you, Ernesto, and you, Alberto,
and I see great idealism and many doubts
That's why I'm glad you're going to San Pablo
I think you will find something important there
For each of you
Thank you, Doctor
If you'll excuse me, I will show you something
Another surprise? So many surprises
What's he getting, squirt? A book
You have quite an appetite, Lito
This is the great love of my life, after my wife, of course
It's my novel
"Latitudes of Silence"
I hope you'll do me the honor of reading it
Of course Of course, Doctor
The honor is ours
You can give me your opinion in Ucayali
Of course May I? Of course
Who dares go first?
Both of us
He reads much faster than me He's really a fast reader
Pucallpa, Peru May 25, 1952 Km 8983
Well, boys, that's the ship, La Cenepa.
You'll be in San Pablo in five days
All aboard!
Maestro
Thank you for your hospitality, for the tickets, for the clothes
Thank you for everything, it's been an honor
Don't mention it
Thank you Thank you very much
One more thing Haven't you forgotten something?
You haven't said anything about my novel
You've read it? Of course
And? What can I say?
I can say, without exaggeration, that no one
can tell a story like you do
It took me a lot of work
Ernesto, your opinion? He loved it
If he loved it, I'd like to hear him tell me
Look, Doctor, I think your book is a bit trite
There are too many clichés,
and I—
Well, that's not so bad
No, the writing is basically — bad
Basically unreadable
It's a worthy attempt, Doctor, but I think you should stick
to what you know best
I'm sorry, Maestro, you asked my opinion and that's it
Damn you, boy
Nobody's been this honest with me
You're the only one
The only one
Well, I won't keep you any longer
So long, we're forever grateful Thank you
Take care!
Have you seen
a bag that was just here?
No A small brown one
I'll bring it over if I do
What's wrong with him?
Call for help!
The pillow!
Hand me the pillow!
Take it easy, Fuser
Adrenaline on the way
Okay, Fuser It's over
Fuser Fuser, quiet It's all over now
Miss
I want to thank you for helping out my friend
No problem He was in really bad shape
Fuck, yeah
He scared me a lot Me too
Thank you very much, Miss
You know, a little while ago, there was a bufeo out there
A bufeo?
They're river dolphins but we call them bufeos
Have you ever seen one?
Never I've heard of them, but I've never seen one
I'm going to tell you a secret
The bufeo's sex organs are like that of a woman's
and Indians used them to comfort themselves
But there's a little problem,
as soon as they're done, they have to kill the animal
because they suffer contractions that won't let them loose
Miss, if I may, can I ask you a question? Shoot
What brings you to these inhospitable waters?
I work on the boat
I come and go between Pucallpa and Leticia
I'm from Pucallpa
Pucallpan Pucallpian
Pucallpian, got it Have you been there?
Yes, it's full of beautiful women, but you are the loveliest
Thank you You're welcome
And, how do you pay for your passage?
I give the captain part of my earnings
And how do you earn your earnings, Miss?
Let's just say if we go to your cabin, I can show you
The name's Luz, in case you want to know who you're doing business with
My little Luz, for a night with you, I'd pay enough gold to equal the Aconcagua
But, honey, I've run out of cash
Well, my friend, in that case you'll have to excuse me
Hey I've gotta go earn a living
You're not going to leave me like this, are you?
I need the 15 dollars, Fuser What?
Her name is Luz
She told me a story of a fish the Indians fucked and kissed me
I'm so horny I could explode
I spent them
No, Fuser
Don't bust my balls
We crossed a desert together, we starved, froze, had accidents
My needs come before Chichina's bathing suit
I don't have them
I gave them to the mining couple
Woo her
Fuck you, Fuser
The house wins, gentlemen
Mr Lloyds is leaving our table
Good evening Good evening, sir
Miss Place your bets, gentlemen
Eight soles Ten soles
One sol
Sir, this is for men, not schoolchildren
I didn't know that in Peru a man's balls are measured in soles
Very well Let's play
Cards, sirs
Open
Card? One
Sir? No
Sir? One
I'll stay put
Card Sure
Thank you
Gentlemen, the house pays twentyone
Sir, seventeen
I'm sorry, gentlemen
Young man? Pay up Twentyone
How much did you bet? One sol
There we go, the first one
Well, gentlemen, let's continue Place your bets
Two soles
Gentlemen, don't fall asleep on me, let's see those bets
Thirty soles Ten soles
Gentlemen, once again! Blackjack!
That's impossible!
How much do I owe you? Thirty soles
The house pays up
See you later Thank you
I'll be retiring
I think we know who's got the biggest balls at this table
Excuse me, gentlemen
Sonofabitch!
Hey, now that we're millionaires, let's go eat
Precisely, check out that morsel right there
What a lucky night
Ernesto This is Luz, which means "light"
At your service
"Electrifying light that dazzles my dreams
Get ready, you've no clue what's coming to you"
Neruda? Granado
San Pablo, Peru June 8, 1952 Km 10223
Are you Dr Bresciani?
How are you, boys? Good trip?
Yes Long, but good
A bit long, huh?
Alberto, Ernesto? No, reverse it
A pleasure I'm Bresciani The pleasure is ours, Doctor
Dr Pesce has spoken enthusiastically of you, so welcome to San Pablo
Oh, by the way, I have a letter from him
Do you want it now? Later on
Well, since we're already here, I can tell you about the colony
The Amazon cuts the colony in half
The patients live on the south side
and the staff, doctors and nurses are here on the north,
as well as a group of nuns who do things with great efficiency
Here's your room
The beds are a bit hard, but it's good for the spine
You can see the hospital from here
and the lab is over there
Dr Souza Lima, these are our Argentinian volunteers, Mr Granado,
Mr Ernesto Guevara
Alberto, I believe you have experience in the laboratory, right?
That's correct
I think he'll be able to help; why don't you show him the research lab?
Ernesto, you're going to help me at the hospital with the consultations
We transfer the seriously ill over here; we bring them in from the south side
Hello, Doctor
Do you also operate on this side?
Yes, we have an OR over there
That's Elvia She's the daughter of a patient; a very good nurse
How is he?
Is he okay? He's much better
Continue the same treatment, then Okay
Doctor, how many patients live on the south side?
Almost 600 All Peruvian?
No, most are, but we have some from Colombia,
Venezuela, and other South American countries
I suggest you wear these gloves
Although leprosy is not contagious under treatment,
the nuns are quite insistent on this point
If it's not contagious, then it's just symbolic, right?
Yes, I'm just telling you so you don't make any mortal enemies
You know what, Doctor? You'll excuse us, but we're not going to wear them
Thank you, Doctor
Don't say I didn't warn you Alright
Get the boxes out
Right this way, boys
Good afternoon Good afternoon
Welcome to San Pablo Thank you
Papa Carlito at your service
Nemesio Reyna I'm Ernesto Guevara
I'm Alberto Granado, a pleasure to meet you
Doctor, haven't you explained the rules?
A pleasure
How are you, Nemesio? Well
Papa Carlito is the community leader They are Argentinian doctors
A pleasure See you later
Those guys are real gents
Doctor, these gentlemen just show up and think they can do what they want?
Mother Sor Alberto,
these gentlemen have medical experience in Córdoba and Buenos Aires
That doesn't give them the right to break the rules
Why don't we talk about this later?
Thank you, Mother, you are very understanding
Excuse us
She's the Mother Superior
I think she wants me I think she does
Hello
This is the dining hall
The nuns fix lunch here on Sundays
But only for those who come to mass
Most of the patients were sent here by their families
or fired from their jobs
So they adapt to their new lives, by building their own house,
farming and raising animals
Doctor Good day
How's Silvia? She doesn't want the surgery
Thank you
Silvia is a somewhat rebellious patient
Surgery is the last chance to save her arm
Hello, Silvia
She's young
May I go talk to her?
Can I sit?
Does your arm hurt?
What's wrong?
I was born with shitty lungs
Pity
It's not so bad
Thanks to that, I got out of military service
I didn't have to clean anybody's boots
Is that why you became a doctor
because you're sick?
Maybe
The first word I learned was "injection"
I want to be useful, somehow
You're wasting your time
Why?
Life is pain
Yes, it's pretty screwed up
You gotta fight for every breath
and tell death to go to hell
Fuser
Bresciani's going to write me a letter of recommendation for a residency
in Caracas at the Cabo Blanco Hospital
How's that sound?
That's good, isn't it?
Good?
What's wrong, Fuser?
Have you seen the river?
Of course
It segregates the ill from the healthy
Yes
Look at this hand
Right here
Wipe
Are you alright?
Scalpel
It's alright
Look at me, look me in the eye
Are you alright?
The nerve is coming out It's thick
I have four siblings
Celia, Ana Maria, Roberto and Juan Martin
Honestly, they're what I miss most
And also my mom
You have to let me know sooner
Have you been playing soccer lately?
Not lately
I'd appreciate it if you wore sneakers next time
and don't forget to invite me My pleasure
Alright, Northerners!
Come on, Northerners!
Mark that one there!
Come on, Southerners!
Alright, Southerners!
Get out there!
Mark that one!
Score!!!
What happened?
What happened, Chubby? We nailed you!
Fuck you!
Some rice corn, onion
Excuse me
Sister, why won't you serve us? What's wrong?
Mother Sor Alberto's rules are very clear
Food is served only to those who attend Holy Mass
They won't serve us because we didn't go to mass?
Says who? Sor Alberto
Mother
Yes, sons?
We'd like to eat, if possible We deserve to eat like everybody else
But you didn't go to mass No
So, how do you expect to feed the body if you haven't first fed the soul?
Ma'am, it's unchristian to deny us food!
We have rules in this house, and they have to be followed
I didn't see any rule book
Neither did I I think if I find it, I'll eat it
Your lunch
You stole it? Yes
Thank you
You stole it from Sor Alberto? Yes
Thank you
Deep? Yeah
Do you want maté? No, thanks
What?
From Caracas? Caracas
This is great
Great, isn't it?
Should I take it?
What do you wanna do?
Maybe it's time to settle down, huh?
Get a steady job, a girlfriend
Grow a gut
And you? Are you going back to school, to Buenos Aires?
I don't know If I find a way of getting back, yes
You'll be 24 next week, Fuser
I should be thinking ahead, huh?
San Pablo, Peru June 14, 1952
He dances pretty well Have you seen the nun?
Check this out
Come on, dance
Bravo!
Thank you Very nice
Good party, huh? Awesome!
Listen, it's the tango you danced in Miramar
I like it
Did you notice? You know how to dance this one
This one's a bit fast, isn't it? You dance it perfectly,
and I think there's a young lady interested in dancing with you
I should ask her, right?
The bird of youth flies away and doesn't come back Fly, man, fly!
Would you like to dance?
Do you know this dance? Yes
This version is a bit faster than the one I know
Mambo
Let Ernesto dance!
Did you think it was a tango?
It's a mambo, Fuser!
Make three wishes!
Alright!
My dear friends, a moment, please
I think it's the perfect time to let Ernesto and Alberto know
how grateful we are to them Not only for having come here,
but also for the enthusiasm and dedication
they have shown towards San Pablo's patients during their three weeks with us
To show our appreciation, we have a little surprise for you
Tomorrow we're going to give you a raft so that you can continue your trip
This raft will be named after tonight's new invented dance:
the mambotango
Good one! Thank you, Doctor!
Speech! Speech!
Well it's my duty to thank you for this toast
with something more than the usual conventions
But, in view of the shabby condition in which we travel,
all we have to offer you are words
Employing them, I'd like to express my sincere thanks,
to the entire staff of the colony,
who, although they barely know us,
have shown their affection by celebrating my birthday
as if it were an intimate celebration of one of their own
Tomorrow we leave Peru
so these words are also our farewell
in which I'd like to remark how grateful I am to the people of this country
who have generously looked after us again and again
I'd like to add something else, completely unrelated to this toast
Don't worry, I won't dance
Even though we are too insignificant
to be spokesmen for such a noble cause
we believe —
and this journey has only confirmed this belief —
that the division of America into unstable
and illusory nations is a complete fiction
We are only single mestizo race from Mexico to the Magellan Straits
And so, in an attempt to free ourselves from narrowminded provincialism
I propose a toast to Peru
and to a United America
Cheers! Cheers!
Bravo!
What What's wrong?
Do you know where the boat is?
Nah, can't see it
I'm going to celebrate my birthday on the other side
Sure, tomorrow, when we find the boat you'll go across and celebrate
No Now No, not now
My birthday is today, not tomorrow
Yeah, I know, Fuser, but you're not going to
You nuts? At night? The animals in there will eat you alive!
How many times did we think we wouldn't make it?
And look, here we are But this is different, Fuser
Why? Because I won't be there to help you
I'm not going in there— You're always gonna be with me, Mial
Come here, you little shit! Come here!
Your mother's gonna kill me!
Fuser! Come here!
Ernesto, listen to me!
Ernesto, come back!
Fuck you!
Ernesto, come back!
Fuck, come back! What's wrong?
The crazy idiot wants to swim across the river!
What?
Please tell me someone has already crossed the river
In all the years I've been here, no one
Ernesto, come back here, damn it
Son, listen to your friend!
He won't listen
Come here, kid! Come back, Ernesto!
Come back! It's dangerous!
Ernesto!
Ernesto, come back!
Come on, come back!
The river is very strong!
What is it? I don't know, something's going on
Ernesto! Do what I say for once in your life
The current is even stronger now What is he doing?
The idiot wants to swim across the river!
Come back, damn it!
Ernesto!
He's swimming
Is that Ernesto? Yes, he's swimming towards us
He's over there!
Boy, get back here!
He's tired You can do it, Ernesto!
He's over there!
Go! Go! Go, Ernesto!
Come on!
Just a bit more!
He made it! The motherfucker made it!
He made it!
Alright, Ernesto!
I always knew he'd make it
I always knew
Sonofabitch
I'm going to miss you so much
Take good care
See you, Nemesio
Papa Carlito is feeling really sad
Take care of yourself
Bye, Bin
We're going to miss you Me too
Thanks for everything
Don't forget us
Take good care of yourself You too, Silvia
Thank you, thanks
Bye, Ernesto Take care
Take good care of your family
Take care of yourselves, you guys
Goodbye, Mauro Safe travels
Cerca De Leticia, Colombia June 22, 1952 Km 10240
Caracas, Venezuela July 26, 1952 Km 12425
I'd prepared a speech full of anecdotes and grandiose phrases
I can't remember shit now
That's how it goes
Che
What?
It's not too late to come work with me in Cabo Blanco
You could come back after you graduate I'll wait for you
I don't know
I just don't know
You know, Mial, all this time we spent on the road
something happened
Something I'll have to think about for a long time
So much injustice
Come on, the plane's taking off!
Well, I should go
Wait, take this, it may help
You kept it? It's yours
I'd better go Yes
I'll write, okay?
Fuser!
I have something very important to tell you
My birthday is not in April 2nd, it's on August 8th
I just said that to motivate us I know
You knew it? Yeah
Sonofabitch!
So long, Mial! Bye, my friend
This isn't a tale of heroic feats.
It's about two lives running parallel for a while,
with common aspirations and similar dreams.
Was our view too narrow, too biased, too hasty?
Were our conclusions too rigid?
Maybe.
Wandering around our America
has changed me more than I thought.
I am not me anymore,
at least I'm not the same me I was.
It took eight years for Ernesto and Alberto to meet again
In 1960 Granado was invited to live and work in Cuba
The invitation came from his old friend Fuser,
now "Comandante" Ernesto Che Guevara,
one of the most prominent and inspiring leaders of the Cuban Revolution
Che went on to fight for his ideals in the Congo and Bolivia where he was captured,
and with the support of the CIA, murdered in October 1967
Forever faithful to his friend Fuser,
Granado remained in Cuba where he founded the Santiago School of Medicine
He lives in Havana with his wife Delia, their children and grandchildren